DeWalt Screwdriver Holder
The GYRO screwdriver is the tool you reach for twenty times a day and then can never find, because it is round, it rolls, and it does not stand up. This gives it somewhere to live: a small square plate that screws to a wall, a cabinet door or the back of a bench, with a sleeve on it that the driver drops straight into. Two screws, ten grams of filament, and it stops migrating.
The part
One printed piece, exported from Fusion 360. Every number below is measured off the STEP file in this folder, so you can check the fit before you spend an hour of print time on it.
| Feature | Dimension |
|---|---|
| Base plate | 38.1 × 38.1 mm (1.5 in square), 6 mm corner radii |
| Plate thickness | 1.0 mm |
| Sleeve outside diameter | 24 mm |
| Sleeve bore | 20 mm, through, with a 1 mm rounded lead-in at both ends |
| Sleeve length | 20 mm, centred on the plate |
| Wall thickness | 2 mm |
| Overall height | 25 mm |
| Mounting holes | 2 × Ø3 mm on the centreline, 5 mm in from each end (28.1 mm apart) |
| Head relief | Ø8 mm × 0.75 mm deep around each hole |
The sleeve is a plain through-tube, not a cup. Mount the plate on a vertical surface with the bore running up and down and the driver goes in nose-first and hangs on whatever part of it is wider than 20 mm; mount it flat and the sleeve becomes a scabbard you slide the tool into sideways. Either works — the two screws sit directly in line with the bore, which is the arrangement you want when a tool is hanging off it.
This is the driver mount. There is no bit rack in the model — the bore is one
open sleeve and nothing else. If you want bits on the same plate, that is a
change to the .f3d, not a second file in this folder.
Parts
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- PLA+ filament, 1.75 mm — the whole part is about 10 g, so one spool is a lifetime supply of these
- PETG filament, 1.75 mm — print it in this instead if the holder is going in a garage or a shed
- #4 × 3/8 in stainless wood screws ×2 — a 2.9 mm shank through a 3 mm hole, which is exactly what the plate was drawn for
- M3 screw, nut and washer kit — if you are bolting through a thin panel rather than screwing into wood. Take the washers whichever way you mount it
- Drywall and hollow-wall anchors — if it is going on plasterboard and you cannot find a stud
- 3M VHB 5952 tape — the no-drill option; two strips of the 1/2 in roll cover the back of the plate
- Digital caliper — measure your driver’s barrel before you print, not after
- Needle file set — for dressing the bore if it comes out tight
And the tool it is built around, which is not part of the build: the DEWALT GYRO 8V MAX screwdriver and a 71-piece DEWALT bit set to feed it.
Print settings
Print it exactly as exported — plate flat on the bed, sleeve arching over it. Nothing else is worth trying: stood on end the plate has no support under it and the whole thing is a 25 mm tower on a 1 mm base.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.2 mm — the 1 mm plate comes out as five whole layers |
| Walls / perimeters | 4 |
| Infill | 25% |
| Supports | None |
| Material | PLA+, or PETG for a hot space |
| Orientation | Plate on the bed, as exported |
The wall count is what carries the load here, not the infill — a 2 mm sleeve wall is five extrusion widths on a 0.4 mm nozzle, so four perimeters makes it very nearly solid and the infill percentage barely matters.
PETG if it lives anywhere warm. The plate is 1 mm thick and it is holding a weight that never comes off. PLA creeps under a constant load once a garage gets into the thirties, and the failure is slow enough that you will not notice until the sleeve is drooping.
The top of the bore is a 20 mm unsupported arch and will sag a little as it closes over. That is fine — it is a clearance sleeve, not a bearing, and the sag is at the top where nothing bears. If you want it clean, turn supports on for the bore only and pull them out afterwards; the 1 mm lead-in radius at each end makes them easy to get a fingernail behind.
Mounting
-
Measure the driver first. Callipers on the part of the barrel you want sitting in the sleeve. Under 20 mm and you are done; over it and you want to open the bore in the
.f3dbefore printing rather than after. -
Print it, then test-fit dry. If the bore is tight, a couple of passes with a round needle file or a rolled strip of sandpaper takes the sag off the top of the arch. Do this before it is on a wall.
-
Mark the holes. Two, on the centreline, 28.1 mm apart. Hold the plate where you want it and mark straight through it — that is faster and more accurate than measuring, and the plate is thin enough to see through.
-
Fix it down with the bore vertical if the tool is going to hang in it, or horizontal if you are laying the tool in sideways. Snug the screws, then stop.
-
Drop the driver in and check it clears the wall. Twenty-five millimetres of standoff is not much, so if your driver has a fat grip section, mount the plate somewhere with nothing above or below it.
The shoulder the screw head lands on is only 0.25 mm thick — the Ø8 mm relief takes the plate down to almost nothing around each hole. It is there so the head sits flush, not so you can crank on it. Tighten these by hand until they stop turning easily and no further, and put a washer under each head if you have one. Overtighten and the head pulls straight through the plate.
Changing the bore
The Fusion source is in the folder, not just the mesh, so this is a five-minute edit rather than a remodel. The bore is a single 20 mm circle and the sleeve’s outside is a 24 mm one concentric with it — change the bore and push the outside out by the same amount to keep the 2 mm wall, or leave the outside alone and accept a thinner one down to about 1.6 mm before it stops being worth printing.
The same file is the right starting point for anything else round and homeless — a glue gun, a soldering iron, a torch. The plate and the screw spacing do not care what is in the sleeve.
Files & downloads
Printable parts
CAD source
The design itself, if you want to change it rather than print it. A STEP file is exact geometry and opens in almost anything; a Fusion 360 archive keeps the modelling history, so you can go back and edit the sketch that made the part.
- dewalt_gyro_screwdriver_holder_v4.f3d Fusion 360 archive — the editable design, with its history
- dewalt_gyro_screwdriver_holder_v4.step STEP — opens in Fusion 360, FreeCAD, Onshape, SolidWorks